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DOMESTIC CLOTHING SOURCING |
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Value-Added Services: Screen Printing
The application of new technologies is slowly transforming the screen printing
process. But many problems and limitations still exist. Our discussion
is focused on screen printing 100% cotton garments, but
many of the principles outlined here apply to any fabric.
Getting Started
As with all manufacturing processes the quality of your final product is
only as good as the sum of the raw materials in that product. In garment
screen printing the most critical raw material is the prepared-for-printing
(PFP) or prepared-for garment-dyeing (PFGD) garment. Both preparation processes
will give you a suitable substrate (base). Proper fabric preparation is
essential, as the screen printing process can cause "yellowing" on
improperly finished fabric. Have your screen printer run tests on the product
you plan to use. This will alert you to any possible fabric issues.
If you are printing on dyed garments the amount of coverage and "grin
through" may vary. Make sure to supply your printer with garments
in all colors to be printed. Your printer may then formulate the inks for
the best possible all-around coverage, including extra steps for certain
colorations. Most garment screen printers measure production in dozens.
Each printer has different production minimums. Some printers charge a
minimum regardless of the actual dozens. Make sure you understand the minimums
and how many dozens they represent.
Initially there is a "setup" or "screen making" charge
for making the original screens and developing the artwork. Make sure you
understand those charges and factor them into your costs and pricing. Garment
screen printers can develop your artwork from many different starting points.
The method that leaves the smallest margin for error is for you to provide "camera-ready" artwork
to the printer. Many types of camera-ready artwork
are not appropriate for screen printing. The printer can tell you the specifics
(dots/inch, separation types, etc.) of what they need.
Color
The success the printer has in repeatedly matching your color standards
is directly related to the difficulty originally encountered in formulating
and processing your colors. The more "custom" your colors are,
the greater the likelihood of difficulty in continually matching those
colors. The simplest way to avoid these problems is to pick "process
colors." These are standard color formulas with a proven track record.
Your printer can supply you with a chart of available process colors.
Whether using process or custom colors, be sure to see product samples.
Check not only for correct color match, but also for
even
coverage
and suitable hand (feel of the product).
Once you have approved the color standard from the screen printer it is
imperative that you and the printer agree on how much variation from standard
you will accept. Many garment screen printers (like garment dyers) use
the term "commercially acceptable match" to describe what you
may see as unacceptable. Make sure that you understand what your printer
means by "commercially acceptable," and make sure your printer
understands what is and is not acceptable to you. There are many specialized
types of printing inks including soy-based inks, puff inks, organic inks,
etc. These inks, while very much in demand, have their own drawbacks. They
generally
cost more and have higher defect rates. Talk to your printer about what
to expect of the inks you choose. Always keep samples of "approved
colors and artwork" for future reference. They can be of immense value
if and when a dispute occurs.
Preparation
Provide your screen printer with a detailed sketch of the garment to be
printed and the correct print placement. Agree as to your tolerances concerning
placement, and make sure your print size is appropriate to the garment
sizes you are printing. Most printers can enlarge and reduce your artwork
as
needed. Make sure to see samples of the resized artwork on the corresponding
garments. If print placement is extremely critical, we recommend that,
if at all possible, the printing take place on the finished garment. Some
manufacturers and printers prefer to print on the unassembled garment components.
This approach eases handling and reduces time, but it opens you up to another
whole set of potential problems, i.e. mismatched garment components and
variations in placement due to sewing inaccuracies and tolerances.
If your print run involves more than one design or design size, you can
expedite the process and increase accuracy by "pre-lotting" your
shipment to the printer. Talk to your printer and find out if packing garments
by color, size, or print to be applied will be helpful. Many times there
can be discrepancies in the final "count" of your garments. Be
certain that all garments shipped to your printer are counted and documented.
Explain to your printer that you expect inventories to be kept accurate
and that shortages must be reported in a timely fashion. If your print
is trademarked or copyright-protected, will the printer comply with the
required rules and procedures? Check your licensing agreement and be sure
you understand the "legalese." Communicate the specifics to
your printer and obtain any required signatures prior to turning over the
artwork.
Determine who will store the screens and artwork when your print run is
complete. Most printers don't mind giving you the screen (you've paid for
them with the "setup" charges). But unless you have an appropriate
location to store them or you are planning on changing printers, you
are probably better off having the printer store them. Some printers will
not give up the screens. If this is a potential issue for you, discuss
it with the printer prior to making the screens. Ask your printer what
garments they will use for setting up the equipment:
- Do they have scrap
fabric or shirts to use or do they use your stock?
- How many will they
need?
- How will this affect your inventory?
Dimensional Change
When using fabrics that are not "pre-shrunk," some shrinkage
may occur due to handling and heat. Check your printed samples'
dimensions
to be sure that they comply with your specifications. Printing
on stripes and other horizontal repeating patterns requires extra
planning and handling.
Misapplication of the print or improper positioning of the
garment may cause negative results such as curving or bowing, causing
the print to
misaligned.
Quality
As with any manufacturing process, there will always be some
substandard merchandise produced. Find out what your screen
printer's average print reject
rate is. Agree on a rate above which the printer will be
financially responsible for ruined product. Remember to cost rejects
into
your product's price.
Certain fabrics may yellow in the dryer. If you are printing
panels, you may wish to include running the unprinted panels
through to maintain
shade
consistency. Many screen printers handle garment inspection
and classification differently. Some inspect for print quality
and
placement only. Some
also inspect for gross garment defects. Make sure you understand
how your production
will be inspected and sorted. If you are asking for extra
or special services, there will probably be an added fee. Know
your costs up
front.
If you have specific inspection classifications, supply that
information, in writing, to your screen printer. Give them
photos or samples of the different
defects you want identified. Check the first few lots of
printed product to verify the printer's compliance. Give specific
written
instructions
on the disposition of irregular and substandard merchandise.
You may want it held for future shipment or shipped to a
different location
than the
first-quality garments. There are other services related
to finishing that some screen printers will provide. These may
include sorting
(by
size,
color, etc.), special packaging, pressing, steam tunneling,
hanging, and tagging. Your printer may provide other services
that may
be of value to
you. Ask your printer for what you need and remember to settle
on price prior to commencing production.
Some Other Thoughts
When choosing a screen printer here are some other considerations
that may be helpful:
- Does the printer have a sample press and/or single-sample capabilities?
- Does
the printer make (burn) the screens on premises or are they sent out
to a service?
- How far do the printer's art development capabilities go? Does the printer
send art out to independent services? How long does it take to get the
art processed and a sample produced?
- Does the printer have a large inventory
of colors?
- What does the printer's shop look like? Is it the kind of place that
instills confidence in the printer's capabilities?
- What is the printer's average production
cycle time?
- Is there a slow and busy time of year?
- Is there one individual at the printer
who will be responsible for communication regarding your account?
- Who should
you talk to if your primary contact is unavailable?
For more information
on Style Source, click
here or call 910-399-2288. |
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