| |
|
| |
DOMESTIC CLOTHING SOURCING |
| |
Value-Added Services:
Heat Transfers
Heat transfers are not what they used to be. Today's technologies
have improved heat transfer quality and processes to the point that they
can rival screen printing. Are heat transfers for you? The following may
help
you
decide.
Getting Started
As with all manufacturing processes, the quality of your final product
is only as good as the sum of its raw materials. In heat
transfer
printing the most critical raw material is the prepared-for-printing (PFP)
or prepared-for-garment dyeing (PFGD) garment. Both preparation processes
will give you a suitable substrate (base). Proper fabric preparation is
essential, as the heat transfer printing process can cause "yellowing" on
improperly finished fabric. Prior to any printing, your transfer printer
should run tests on the product you plan to use and alert you to any possible
fabric issues.
If you are printing on dyed garments, the amount of coverage and "grin
through" may vary. Make sure to supply your transfer manufacturer
with garments in all colors to be printed. The printer will then formulate
inks for the best possible all-around coverage.
Heat transfer manufacturers
all have different minimums. Make sure you understand the minimums and
how many dozens they represent. Initially there are "setup" and "art" charges
for developing the transfers. Make sure you understand these charges and
factor them into your costs and pricing. Heat transfer manufacturers can
develop your artwork from many different starting points. The method that
leaves the smallest margin for error is for you to provide "camera-ready" artwork
to the transfer manufacturer. Many types of "camera-ready" artwork
are not appropriate for heat transfer printing. Your transfer manufacturer
can tell you the specifics (i.e., dots/inch, separation
types, etc.) of what is needed.
Color
The success your transfer manufacturer has in matching your
color standards is directly related to the difficulty in formulating
and processing your colors. The more "custom" your
colors are, the greater the likelihood of difficulty in continually
matching those colors. The simplest way to avoid these problems is
to pick "process
colors." These are standard color formulates with a proven track
record. Your transfer manufacturer can supply you with a chart of available
process colors. Whether using process or custom colors, be sure to
ask for samples, on your product. Check not only for correct
color match, but
also for even coverage and suitable hand (feel of the product).
Once
you have approved the color standard from the heat transfer manufacturer
it is imperative that you and the supplier agree on how much variation
from standard you will accept. Many heat transfer manufacturers (like
garment dyers) use the term "commercially acceptable match" to
describe what you may see as unacceptable. Make sure that you understand
what your
transfer manufacturer means by "commercially acceptable,"
and make sure the transfer manufacturer understands what is and is
not acceptable
to you. Always keep samples of "approved colors and artwork" for
future reference. They can be of immense value if and when a dispute
occurs. The heat transfer process does not generally allow for color
blending and/or fading from one color to another. Color separation
tends to be very distinct.
Preparation
If the application of your transfers is going to be done by your transfer
supplier or a contract transfer shop, make sure to provide them with
a detailed sketch of the garment to be printed and the correct print
placement.
Agree as to your tolerances concerning placement. Make sure your print
size is appropriate to the garment sizes you are printing (most transfer
suppliers can enlarge and reduce your artwork as needed). Make sure
to see samples of the resized artwork on the corresponding garments.
If
your transfers
will be applied by an outside contractor and/or your print run involves
more than one design or design size, you can expedite the process and
increase accuracy by "pre-lotting" your shipment to the contractor.
Talk to your contractor and find out if packing garments by color,
size, or
print to be applied will be helpful.
Many times there can be discrepancies in the final "count" of
your garments. Be certain that all garments shipped to the contractor
are counted and documented. Explain to your contractor that you expect
inventories
to be kept accurate and that shortages must be reported in a timely
fashion. If your print is trademarked or copyright-protected, will
the transfer
manufacturer and/or contractor comply with the required rules and procedures?
Check for licensing agreement and be sure you understand the "legalese."
Communicate the specifics to your supplier and obtain any required
signatures prior to turning over the artwork. Ask your contractor what
garments
they will use for setting up the equipment. Do they have scrap fabric
or shirts
to use or do they use your stock? How many will they need? How will
this affect your inventory?
Dimensional Change
When using fabrics that are not "preshrunk" some shrinkage
may occur due to handling and heat. Check your printed samples' dimensions
to be sure they comply with your specifications. Printing on stripes
and
other horizontal repeating patterns requires extra planning and handling.
Misapplication of the print or improper positioning of the garment
may cause negative results such as curving or bowing, causing the print
to
seem misaligned.
Quality
As with any manufacturing process, there will always be some substandard
merchandise produced. Find out what the transfer manufacturer's and contractor's
average print reject rate is. Agree on a rate above which the manufacturer
or contractor will be financially responsible for ruined product. Remember
to cost rejects into your product's price. Many heat transfer contractors
handle garment inspection and classification differently. Some inspect
for print quality and placement only. Some also inspect for gross garment
defects. Make sure you understand how your production will be inspected
and sorted. If you are asking for extra or special services, there will
probably be an added fee. Know your costs up front.
If you have specific inspection classifications, supply that information,
in writing, to the contractor. Give them photos or samples of the different
defects you want identified. Check the first few lots of printed product
to verify the contractor's compliance. Give specific written instructions
on the disposition of irregular and substandard merchandise. You may want
it held for future shipment or shipped to a different location than the
first quality garments. There are other services related to finishing that
some heat transfer printers will provide. These may include sorting (by
size, color, etc.), special packaging, pressing, steam tunneling, hanging,
and tagging. Your contractor may provide other services that may be of
value to you. Ask your contractor for what you need and remember to settle
on price prior to commencing production.
Other Thoughts
When choosing a transfer manufacturer here are some other considerations
that may be helpful:
- Will the transfer supplier provide samples prior
to production? How many samples will they provide and what are
the costs?
- How far do the transfer manufacturer's art development
capabilities go? Does the transfer manufacturer send art out
to independent services? How long does it take to get the art processed
and a sample produced?
- What is the
transfer supplier's range of colors? Can the transfer supplier match
anything or are you limited to certain specific color ranges?
- What does the transfer manufacturer's
shop look like? Is it the kind of place that instills confidence in
the transfer manufacturer's capabilities? What is the transfer manufacturer's
average production cycle time? Is there a slow and busy time of year?
- Is there one individual at the transfer manufacturer
who will be responsible for communication regarding your account? Who
should you talk to if your primary contact is unavailable?
Conclusion
Many people buy transfers and apply them themselves. Basic
heat transfer presses are reasonably priced and easy
to operate. There are many
benefits to applying the transfers yourself:
- You
can apply only what you need when you need it.
- You can control quality
and placement with more ease.
- No production minimums to worry about.
- You have better control over
scheduling.
- No waiting in line for a contract shop to "fit you in."
For
more information on Style Source, click
here or call 910-399-2288.
|
|
|
